I had to take a break from my project for a wee bit of surgery and physical therapy.
Fortunately, I’m back in the garage and autumn temps are down to a comfortable mid 70s to mid 80s.
Now all I have to do is figure out what I was doing before I put my tools away.
Lets see, there’s some new radiator hoses and clamps that need to be installed.
The outlet casting at the top of the engine has a lot of deposits that imped sliding the hose on and I’m not sure what the best way the clean it off is.
I took a wire brush to it, but didn’t even make a dent in the crud. I may try course sandpaper next.
I’d be grateful for any suggestions.
Coarse sandpaper did the trick!
Vinegar will clean the cooling system very well. You just install one gallon of vinegar - the cheapest white kind from the grocery store - then fill the cooling system with water. Drain the vinegar the next day and then flush with water until it runs clear.
Thanks for the tip! I’ll have to give it a try.
Better never than late, but for the next time a rusty outlet is encountered here’s what an old time radiator shop man once told me.
Reader’s Digest version here: bead blasting is best, otherwise clean the rust as best as possible. Using new hose(s) judiciously spread some black RTV over and around the outlet filling in the “craters”. Install the outlet then slide the hose over the outlet which will leave RTV in the craters. Wipe off the excess RTV and tighten the hose clamp. I recall an especially pitted outlet that took two hose clamps to “git 'er done”.
Hope this helps if there’s a next time.
Here’s a new development! I installed the new radiator petcock with PVC tape
–the yellow stuff for gas lines --was all I had on hand but I expect it to work just fine, and now I’m ready to fit the hood, stick the gaskets on the castings with Permatex No.2 align the plumbing and cinch everything down.
When I unbolted the inlet/outlets from the engine block the lower gasket crumbled, but not for one for the fitting that goes to radiator’s top tank, so I set it aside.
Since I want to get the inlet/outlets glued to the engine block before continuing I got out a new gasket set which I already ordered. These gaskets are paper-like, not like the one I remember setting aside, so I dug that one out to compare. After cleaning the old gasket, it appears to be metallic!
Is this how it’s supposed to be?
Is this an aftermarket improvement or shade tree expedient?
Should I reuse it?
After cleaning it up, it looks to be in excellent condition.
Or should I replace it with the paper-oid stuff?
I went with the paper gaskets and Permatex #2.
Today I’ll screw the radiator shell to the spacers (is that what you call them?) Line up the clamps & hoses, check hood fit and then cinch everything down and keep my fingers crossed for no leaks.
I think the next step will be to give the hopefully dry garage floor a good sweeping and decide which leak to attack next—either the oil or feul…
Update:I contacted Langs and was informed their gaskets are paper and they’ll work—so no problems.
The water started leaki! I traced the leak to a crack where one of the bolts attaches the cast iron water outlet casting to the engine block.
I cleaned the garage floor with Happy Kitty cat litter and turned off the petcock between the fuel line and the Holley carburetor.
Tomorrow I’ll put half a gallon of gas in the tank and look for leaks. If there are none then I’ll consider the gas tank and fuel line sound before I open the petcock to the carb.
I ordered a Holley gasket kit along with the inlet casting and new inlet gasket
—the old one disintegrated—just in case it’s the carb needing attention.
Tom gives some excellent advice on using RTV to install the hoses. I often slime the hoses thoroughly with RTV before installing them. If you don’t they leak.