Radiator fluid leaking

After filling the cooling system for the first time in about ten years I see fluid (well, water actually) leaking from a rather unexpected place.

Does anyone know what this is about?

Looks like a rusty freezeplug leaking

Thank you, I did not know about those. What would be the best way of dealing with this? Remove the exhaust manifold, take out the plugs and replace them with new ones?

Never mind, I found that this topic has been addressed several times. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction!

That is a leaking freeze plug. Likely it has rusted through because some previous owner could not afford anti freeze. You will have to remove the exhaust manifold. I recommend replacing all three freeze plugs while you have the manifold off.

I was checking the radiator today—I had filled it a few months ago with coolant and this morning there wasn’t any to be seen when I took off the cap. There were no leaks from the hose, so I’ll take a look at the freeze plugs. Good information!

Turned out that for me this indeed was the problem. Fixed it by installing new plugs. Since it was rather hard to reach I removed the manifolds first but all in all I guess it took me two hours at most.

I refilled the radiator this morning, and came home to big puddle of coolant under the T. The freeze plugs weren’t leaking but the bowl under the fan was wet with coolant. Both the inlet and outlet hoses were bone dry so I’m not sure where the coolant is coming from.
Very curious!

The leak(s?) look like they’re coming from the upper tank in the radiator. I’m not sure how to proceed.
There’s bright green on the bottom of the brass tank above the cylinder head outlet hose in the vicinity of the radiator data plate.
Maybe removing the radiator and taking it in to a radiator shop for testing is in order?

It is likely a radiator shop can solder up the leaky tank.

I’ll look around for instructions on removing the radiator. I already have new hoses. I’m wondering what else I should change out since I’ll have the radiator out of the car?

I came across this youtube doing a search:

Perhaps someone here can advise me.
In the YouTube above, the fellow replaced the inlet and outlet fittings. I can the understand the necessity if they are severely corroded, but would I need to do the same if mine looked
to be in good shape? Or is it just something that’s good to do just to take advantage of being easily accessed? Also, if I do have to install the new fittings, would Gasketcinch be a suitable sealer for the job?

Well the intent was good but the execution was terrible. The drain valve can be opened easily using a 1/8" drill bit to remove the rust particles that tend to accumulate. Then the easy way to take the hoses off is to remove the inlet and outlet from the engine. I use Permatex Form A Gasket #2 on the gaskets so they last for many removals and installs. I have not used Gaskacinch ever, nor is it something I see for sale at the auto part stores around here.

After you get the inlet and outlet bolts removed the radiator comes out easily. Then remove the hoses. When installing it leave the hose clamps loose until the radiator is in position with the hood adjusted. Then tighten the hose clamps last. You should always use a mixture of anti - freeze and water to prevent rust and provide freeze protection in the winter.

Thank you! That’s good to know.

I picked up some Permatex Form a gasket #2 at Napa today. I was there getting a tube of silicone adhesive to glue the heated passenger side mirror back into the housing on the family sedan.
If you don’t turn the heater off after the mirror defrosts, after awhile, they’ll do that, I learned.
I’m always learning something.
Another thing I learned: I have a cheap set of imported sockets which I keep in the garage and grabbed those because they were convenient to unbolt the inlet and outlet after a spritz of WD-40.
Well, that unfortunate 5/8 socket started rounding the corners on the bolts!
This morning I went inside where I keep my good tools and got my Craftsman set out.
Those cheap import sockets will be going away.

I have a tube of Permatex Form A Gasket #2 that is maybe 15 years old. I keep it in a zip lock baggie in the drawer of my tool box because it is so messy and it never hardens.

Does Form-a-Gasket really replace the gasket?
This is confusing since I have new replacement gaskets and only need something to stick the gaskets on while I tighten the bolts.
Maybe I should stick with Gaskacinch as I’m already familiar with it and it’s worked for me in the past.

In theory yes but that’s not the way I use it. I use Permatex Form A Gasket #2 with a gasket. The Form - A Gasket #2 is used because it never hardens, thus the gaskets can be reused endlessly.

The only radiator shop in town I knew of was Johnny’s, but Johnny’s is long gone. I knew this because at the county fairgrounds is an exhibition of iconic neon signs from local businesses that are no more, yet their neon signs were so creative that the company who made most of them donated them to the Fair.
So, I had to find a new radiator shop.
The first I went to didn’t even want to look at it.
I had better luck at the second shop. The guys looked really interested in it, so now I’m waiting for an estimate and my current question is what’s my Plan “B” if they can’t repair it?
Snyders lists new radiators for $1,300 to $1,375. Mac’s lists a new flat core for $825.
I have no idea what used radiators are going for at swap meets or if that should even be a consideration.
Any suggestions?

It’s taking a while to get an estimate from the shop—I was told one of the tanks is shot and there are a lot of leaks.