Replacing Timer

I am planning to put a New Day Timer on. I have never done this before. So my question is. Does #1 cylinder have to be at TDC or any other special circumstances?

For reinstalling the timer, no. You should check the timing before and after the change though.

How do you check the timing?

I check that the coil on #1 buzzes just past TDC on the compression stroke. I use a stir stick from Micky D’s coffee to tell when the piston is just past TDC, with the spark plug removed of course. There are probably a thousand other ways to do it, but the one I mentioned is super cheap and easy. Like me.

I have one to install on my '26 and it came with instructions. It also came with a modern seal to put behind it on the cam shaft to keep oil out of the timer (better than original felt)…highly recommended. I’ve only glanced at the instructions, I believe the plugs are suppose to be out, there is something mention about the spark leaver position but the number one cylinder must be at TDC on compression due to the fact that you have to change the piece on the end of the cam shaft from original to the ND piece. If this is not followed the timing of the engine will be off and may not start or run properly.

I have a question about the New Day timers. Instructions state to put a small amount of grease on the face where the brush rides run it for 50 miles and wipe it out. The dilemma…what kind of grease. An EP2 or silicone based dielectric. Also the cover says “No oil”. For those whom already have this time on their cars, what did you do? Grease…what type…or no grease at all and what gave the results after running it. Thanks in advance for you insights.

I have used original and reproduction NEW Day timers in the past. Never used any lubricant in them. The reproductions wore out in less than 100 miles. The originals were pretty good.

Interesting. I wonder if because this is a re-pop, that they state to lube it lightly for the first 50 miles, then wipe it out… I have also read that the first gen of re-pops were not so great. My understanding is now that the quality is much better. I still wonder though, if a silicone based dielectric grease might be a good idea to prevent possible premature failure. The silicone residue would stay for quite some time and be nice and slippery, and being dielectric, good corrosion resistance and non-conductive due to its moisture repelling properties. I have been in contact with the vendor for their take on this, and maybe go back to the manufacturer for clarification. but their tech support hasn’t been available. Not an issue as the there are so many pieces off the car for the winter to-do-list. And not so wonderful weather.

My experience was the black reproductions just don’t last very long. Got mine from a place in the Pacific Northwest. No good. Way too soft. The brown originals last forever with no grease of any kind.