John they both look like typical Rands windshields and hinges. The top one is the unequal height pane version, the bottom one the more common style with both panes the same height. In any case they were all the same height overall so that all the firewalls could be the same and all tops the same.
Here’s the taillight. The Neverout license bracket is reproduction.
Headlamps are polished and installed. They have the original mirrored reflectors in them.
Something isn’t right. The brass channel from the upper windshield glass should be flush with the lower glass. That gap is small looking now but it will seem huge in cold weather and it will be awful if it’s raining.
John, It looks like the photos you posted became disconnected from this posts, and I can’t see them as of 9/14/2020. Would you be willing to re-post them?
I’m working on a Canadian T myself, a 1910 touring. I’m always interested in learning more about Ford of Canada and the details and differences from US Production.
Another fantastic article by Royce, thanks so much for all the time and effort that goes into these.
Another picture of Canadian T’s for export. I am not certain what year they are but they have factory installed top boots if that’s a clue!?!
Thanks for reposting / fixing the photos, John. Beautiful restoration. The factory photos are wonderful. The photo on the prior page appears to show the hood sills sitting across the left side light bracket and the radiator support rod. Photos during assembly are really great to look over carefully to see the minor details.
My car came with the short straps that hold the top to the windshield hinge…rather than the long style that go from the top to the radiator area. Now, my restorer had never seen straps like mine before. Typically the short straps are leather attached to a footman loop on the top iron and a hook that fastens into a top buckle loop that is held by the windshield hinge bolt.
Well my straps are leather wrapped cable with a cast hook on the end that fastens to the loop on the windshield hinge and a cast flat loop on the other end. The way you get adjustment is a small leather strap that wraps around the top iron and goes through the flat loop on the strap. Now I love searching the net for details…and low and behold I found a very clear picture of exactly what I had…and the best part, it was Henry himself behind the wheel. Can’t do better than that!! Most of you will have seen this great picture before.
…and here’s a blow up of the strap!
I will take a picture of my top straps when they are restored.
Here’s a bigger version of the same view. This is a late 1912 touring. Wish we knew the identity of the woman and baby standing next to the car.
I’d like to know who she is too because I would ask her if the back door had outside handles or not.
Mine does and so does the picture below which also has the same top to hinge straps as mine and
the car Henry is in. The picture below was hard to procure but I was able to enlarge the top strap
on the original website and it’s 100% the same as Henry’s and mine. Obviously somehow, someway
Canada used these straps in a pinch. The car below like Henry’s is American production as the driver
side is a fixed panel.
The old rad was taken apart and rejuvenated. The side lights have been restored as well.
View of back seat and top.
The three (CRB) pedals. Any thoughts what’s up with them!?! Chime in!
They are custom. I have the stock ones set aside. Those are the original floor boards.
There wasn’t one piece of bad wood in the body. All body screws could be tightened.
Another view of the pedals…painted with the rubber pads glued on. The 8 day clock is a period accessory
rim wind and set. It’s accurate for a day at a time…approximately. It is a little unusual having a black face.
Pedals look to have been modified to better accommodate a shorter driver.
Ha ha…I wish I had a prize for you!! I’m 4’-6"…now the only good thing about the metric system here in Canada is that equates to 137 cm…I am much taller in Canada…LOL. Before having the pedals extended I needed a 5" thick cushion at my back. Luckily I never had to sit on a cushion in a Model T like I do in any modern iron. This is the only car I can drive 100% cushion free. I had the restorer extend a set of the later plain pedals so as to not ruin the old ones with the letters on them. We did glue the pads to them. Oh, I can look over the steering wheel folks…not through it like half the population of Florida. When finished the car will be shipped to my home there…and that’s why I’m not having a front license plate bracket put on the car.
This photo shows the robe rail. It’s not the typical style often added to T’s but rather an original from the day. I have purchased a lot of vintage accessories over the years either from eBay or at Hershey.
A few more pictures of the progress!
Notice the little brass clip holding the brass horn tubing at the bottom of the driver door. Because Canadian 1912 driver’s doors opened these were FACTORY installed to keep the door from hitting the tubing. I can supply multiple era pictures showing this clip on Canadian built T’s from 1912.
This picture is of a Canadian built 1912 right hand drive T exported to New Zealand. The little brass horn clip is visible.
Another view of the T. The generator is being restored. The rear outside door handles haven’t been put on yet. Aren’t the orange top straps beautiful. The originals are being restored.
Canadian production of 1912 T’s. Interestingly they have spare tires mounted on them, perhaps a special order!? I am not certain where the generators are! Also on the right most car you can again see the clip for the horn hose.
Great pictures John!
The nearest touring in the last photo doesn’t have a generator because it has electric headlamps.
The reflectors are visible in the E&J gas lamps. Probably the others as well but not visible from this angle.
Interesting that the 1912 Canadian’s were being supplied with electric headlamps
straight from the factory!
I don’t believe Ford Motor Company Canada would ship a “non-functional” headlight system so they must have been run off the magneto. A 6-volt storage battery was only good for less than an hour with my electrified John Brown 16’s.
Command central. A better view of the clock face. It’s an 8 day clock and it runs accurate for a day.
Radiator tag.
I think this is pretty daring. I’m curious how they loaded and launched it.