Hello all. Got gut punched the day with the 19 Touring. I am now in the process of pulling the engine as I found out that the internal oil line is damaged and plugged. Timing gears are a bit beat up. I will likely be going through the transmission while I’m there. I see there is a tool called a crankcase alignment tool. Am I to assume that this would be a prudent purchase for putting it all back together? Thanks to all who respond.
If you’re talking about the kr wilson heavy metal stand that the pan fits on, they are rare and expensive if you find one. If it’s complete, it will come for fixtures and pins for checking the position of the pan front and rear openings, as well as the engine mount ears. Here is a thread covering the restoration of one: KR Wilson pan jig ... finally restored :) - MTFCA Forum
The one I was referring to is from a parts supplier and it only 32.95 US. It does have the label of KRW crankcase alignment tool. In the description it states that it is for aligning the tailshaft with the pan and the hogshead. I’m likely going to have the transmission and flywheel off, and will be addressing any issues found in the transmission, and was wondering if I will need this tool to reassembled everything. Something else to ask. What does the masses like to use to lift the engine? What I have heard being done is 1/2 inch pipe screwed in to the plug holes with 3/8 or 1/2 nuts welded in and then lifting eyes. Then attach the engine hoist.
Thanks in advance.
The alignment tool is fine but if the “4th main”, as it is often referred to, slips into place without coercion you won’t need it. If it doesn’t slip into place then the pan will have to be adjusted and the only real way to do that correctly is on a pan straightening jig. Alignment of the 4th main is critical for crankshaft longevity. I have done some where everything lined up right off but more often than not I have had to track down someone with a pan straightening jig and they will have the alignment tool as part of the unit. This is what I use to pull the engine. Ain’t pretty but it works great. Two of them located in the best place to get the angle you need to swing out the engine.
Thanks Russ-t-fender. That’s pretty much what I have now fabricated from a piece of pipe. As far as the alignment tool, I am not taking the crank out of the engine. I will be only removing enough to get to the internal oil line. It’s sold by the parts people in Maine, number KRW-CCL. It says it for the tailshaft, and to me a tailshaft is the output shaft of the transmission. Since I’m likely to have the transmission and flywheel off, I’m wondering if I need this tool to align things up at reassembly.
We’re talking about the same thing. It’s the ball cap that the output shaft rides on. If you don’t do anything other than the oil line everything should line up again when you replace the crankcase. Depending on what you do with the transmission you may, but really shouldn’t, have an alignment issue if the pan is straight. It still should line up. I always fit the 4th main ( ball cap ) with the engine mounted nose down on an engine stand. Just check that the clearance of the ball cap on the shaft is within specs as if it is very worn it will slip on easily enough but that doesn’t mean the pan is straight and you may need to replace the ball cap.
Ok. Thanks for that. I’m sure it’ll all come together when I get to that point. I’ll see how it is when I take it apart.
I found rope to be the best for engine pulling. Good quality 3/8" worked for me.
Hello all. Hogs head and pan are off and I’ve set up a spring compressor for the clutches. My question is, how do I get the pin out? As I compress the spring, it eventually covers the hole. What am I missing here. Also, what is the tie wire material? It looks copper color but stiffer than copper, it’s non magnetic(makes sense). Is it stainless? Thanks in advance.
Edit: I now see it makes quite a difference once the finger plate is remove.
Your nifty compression tool is holding the spring support (cup) rigid, so it can’t be turned to line up the hole with the pin. Try another method of compressing to allow the support to rotate, the support cup has to be able to rotate.
The safety wire is likely brass, with that color. Some don’t use steels as fear of internal damage with loose broken wires, usually won’t happen SS wire is good. Comment of turning the support cup should have added to also rotate the spring in tune, to get the pin out, usually modest compression of the spring is needed.
Thanks dantreace. The spring compressor allowed me to turn the spring. I did find out that once I removed the finger plate to expose the clutch plates, that it gave more movement and made it easier to get the retaining pin out. I don’t think that the tie wire is brass, as it’s too stiff for brass. That being said, I was just curious, so at reassembly, I plan on using stainless wire. Thanks for the info. Appreciate your help.
Am incorrect on the brass tie wire? I guess that brass would be stiffer than copper, and copper would be way to soft. I have never run in to brass tie wire before. I also found this behind the clutch drum. In looking at the center, it looks like it’s broken off of the bushing in the brake drum. Am I correct in this thought? The ID of the brass is larger than the shaft.
One more question. In getting the driven gear off. Is a bit of heat prudent or not advisable on the gear? This is my first time in the transmission, so I’m treading lightly.