I bought a piloted reamer from Langs for this job. It had a 5/16" pilot with a 11/32" diameter main body so the oversized valve stems would be concentric with the seats.
That is what I expected when I ordered my parts. The reamer that came with my valves does not have a pilot. My plan plan at this point is to use the mag drill with an old valve stem to center it, drill, and then use the mag drill to run the reamer through. It will be accurate, it’ll just take some time.
Well, extremely glad i looked things over again. I was sent the wrong valves and reamer…sent me .030 over, not the .015…good grief!
Hello all. I was looking at the videos in the link that Cudaman put up, and I was watching the part about machining the pistons. I’m not a professional engine builder like this gentleman, but I do have a question / concern. In the video a window pups up with how to determine how much your cut should be, and I’ll quote:
“The estimated cut is calculated by the average diameter of the piston at the base times the average thickness of the piston (= area) times the weight of aluminum (AL) in grams per square inch (44.23) divided into the grams to be removed”
I was working on figuring out how much to remove from my pistons and it was starting to hurt when I realized, to me, something does not add up.
Here is my query… it is stated “times the weight of aluminum in grams per square inch”. Square inches is area. Should weight not measured in cubes, ie 23 grams per cubic centimeter or 3 ounces per cubic inches. Could he have meant to state in cubic inches instead of square inches. Have I missed something? Please, by all means, correct me if I am mistaken and where. Thank you!
Yes, I’m sure he meant to say cubic inches. Why not contact him directly so that he can make the correction? WHH@ModelT-Tips.com
Thanks. I tried it. It bounced right back telling me some computer (http://mx1.gcmcomputers.com/) rejected the message as the address wasn’t found. 
Sorry to hear that. Try sending Mike Bender an email through the MTFCA forum:
https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/memberlist.php?mode=email&u=171
Thanks cudaman, decided not to worry about piston weight, as it looked unrealistic to try with stock pistons. Currently waiting for replacement valves for the incorrect over sized stems. Took the time to measure valve guides, (valve wobble test not real accurate 
), and found that they were not as bad as assumed, so stock stemmed valves are on their way.
Well the post office lost my valves, so looks like it’s going to be another week…or so. 
Hello all. Valves are now in and head is on. Bought the nickel plated bolts and torqued 35#, then 50#. Filled rad and hava a leak at rear and at the front passenger side corner. Re-torqed bolts at 50# and was surprised to how much they moved after sitting over night. I have done it again at 52#. I used the pattern in the picture
Plan to check torque several times today, let it sit over night again and then see where it is tomorrow. I even took a hone stone to the head and block, gently, to knock down any possible high spots. Any suggestions as to what direction to take, short of ripping it apart? Thanks to all who reply.
Edit: Forget to mention, copper head gasket, no sealer of any type. The gasket that I removed that was installed years ago with no issues, was the silicone one. Perhaps a re-do with one of those…last resort.
The copper head gaskets need some sort of sealer. KW Copper coat works well. I’ve also used Krylon flat aluminum paint.
Auto_Inn…thank you… I see that about the sealant. So, with that in mind, what would be the consensus on removing the head, spraying the gasket and re-installing? Keeping in mind that although the gasket has been compressed, it has not had a heat cycle because I did not start the engine as the coolant leak was detected. Is this something worth attempting? (I really don’t want to do this again). Or am I better off starting over, either with a new copper gasket and spray, or a modern design gasket. At this point, I’m leaning towards the modern style gasket, as this was what my Dad and I installed the last time the head was off, and had no issues.
Copper head gaskets can be re - used a couple times. They need to be carefully cleaned, then baked at 450 degrees for 20 minutes to anneal the metal. Then the gasket can be hung by a piece of coat hangar and sprayed on both sides with Copper Coat.
Auto_Inn…thanks for the tip on annealing the gasket. Not something that I would have done or considered, but makes absolute sense. For now, I have a new gasket to install, (with copper gasket spray) but the one that I’m taking out will get set aside for that process later. Likely a good candidate as its not been cooked by engine heat, just compressed. Thank you for the info.
Just be meticulous with everything clean and dry. Wipe all the parts with solvent and let them dry.
Because it was the expedient thing to do I have reused head gaskets and pretty much have done what Auto_Inn has written with good results. Cleanliness is next to impossible but vital. One thing I didn’t do b/c I was unaware of doing so, was to bake the gasket. I guess I have had beginner’s luck, but will certainly warm up the oven for future head gasket re-use.
The first time I reused a head gasket I sprayed both sides with Rust-Oleum aluminum paint with good results, but since have used Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket also with good results.
I don’t have the sequence memorized but do have the data saved, but I follow Auto_Inn’s step increments when torqueing the head bolts. There is also a plan of running the engine for a few minutes or so, letting it cool, etc. I’m sure Auto_Inn can and will supply the specifics if asked.
Finally, a gentle reminder is that the head gasket can easily be swapped end for end when being installed, with unfavorable results. When there is a 50-50% chance of getting it right, there’s a 100% chance I’ll get it wrong if I’m not careful.
Regards, Tom in Taylor Mill, KY
Auo_Inn…definitely careful. Cleaned and wiped down everything.
Tom…thanks for your insight also.
Gentlemen…as it stands now, all is good. Head was installed yesterday, torqued, and left to sit overnight. Torque value was re-checked this morning and nothing moved. Installed plugs and coolant and about 4 cranks and it was running. Played with the rpm’s, not leaving it at anyone speed for too long as to assist in seating the new rings. It’s now 3:10 pm in South Western Ontario Canada, the head has been re-torqed and a repeat of today will happen tomorrow. It’s now time to sit, reflect and enjoy the warm weather that is here for today, and best of all, a barley based beverage 
I would re-torque after one heat cycle. Then leave it alone.
Yes, got thinking about it and figured that should be the thing to do. Thanks. Have had the car out a couple of times now for around an hours run each time and all seems to be good. Haven’t done a compression test yet, but figured I’d do that in the fall when I put the car away for the winter. I think i should be close to having all 20 ponies the way it pulls up the hills compared to last year. Just having to tweek transmission as the new band linings settle in. Thank to all for suggestions and help. Looking forward to enjoying country drives and cruise nights.
When you do a compression test be sure to have the throttle open all the way. If not you inhibit the flow of air and you’ll get a bad reading.
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