Hello all. Adding another stallion to the stable in the spring. A 1919 Canadian built Tourer. A 91 year old friend of my Dads decided to sell me his car after I expressed an interest and 31 years of ownership. I am the only other person to drive this car since his purchase. It starts up quickly and runs very nice. I believe that it is mostly a survivor car. Stainless valves were install by the guy he bought it from. That’s the only thing that has been done to the engine. Not a show car, but a good driver. He has agreed to store it for me until the spring to allow me to do some storage modification at my place. Looking forward to spring and more T-ing fun.
Looks like a great car! Some pictures of the interior, axles and engine would be nice. Congratulations!
Thanks Auto_Inn. It’s a solid car that you don’t have to worry about someone leaning against. I have some pictures on my phone, but they’re not very good. Think lighting was a issue. I’m going back to help put it away for the winter and I’ll get some better shots and post them. One thing that it has, from what I’ve been able to find out are H & D cantilever shocks.
What a beauty, I envy you.
Thanks Len. Appreciate the comment. I forgot to take a picture of the engine, but here are a couple more. The car also does not have clincher rims. Any info on these? I though they were all clincher unless you had wires on the later models.
Edit: Did some searching and I’m coming across non-demountable rims. Ok, didn’t know about them. Would someone mind educating me on them. How is a tire changed?
You just leave the wheel on the car and change the tire. It’s actually easy. Looks like a great car from here.
Thanks Auto-Inn. I think it’s a great car also, but it’s also mine. We all like to think what we have is pretty good. Ok…this might sound silly but …change the tire with tire spoons? Similar to modern tires, just leave it on the car? Or at least pop one side off, fix the tube, remove puncture causing item and re-install, again, all with the spoons or tire irons…Yes?!
When I get the car here in the spring, I’ll be able to take some better pictures and post them. I didn’t want to tie up the sellers time.
Royce has some pics on changing a clincher tire here. Model T Ford Forum: Need help or advice for changing a clincher tube
Thanks cudaman. Royce makes it look fairly easy. Hope I never have to do it on the side of the road. 
Already done a small project for the Tourer. When I took it for a drive the seller told me that the threads on the mag post were not good and suggested that I test drive on the battery as it can cut out on mag. So after parking it for the winter, I brought the mag post home to see if I can fix it. If not, purchase a new one. Well, the repair was a success. I was able to get the post chucked in the lathe and running pretty true, so I gently machined off the existing stud.
Then I cleaned up the end so that it was flat and drilled a hole the correct size for a 12-24 tap, and tapped the hole.
Then chucked a small piece of brass rod in the lathe and turned it down so I could run a 12-24 die down the shaft and make a threaded stud.
Then, cut off the excess leaving a shoulder and used the hacksaw to put a slot in the end.
I had pulled the contact spring out before starting all this. Next I put the stud up inside and screwed it in and jammed it against the shoulder. Then cut the stud to an appropriate length, cleaned up the end and installed a new brass nut as the old steel nut that was on it was loose on the stud. Mag post fixed!
(Apologies…this is a bit long winded)
Hello all. Been quite some time since I’ve been here. Life got really busy for a while. We drove the 19 home on the last Saturday of April wearing winter coats and gloves, and it was also windy. Come out from behind a bush…wind chill! We were cold but had a blast. Had to deal with some issues as time permitted, charging system failure, battery died, cooling, not running well on mag. Figured out mag to a degree, but need some assistance. My mag post repair shown above didn’t fix the issue. I made my own but used a spring without a point as there was quit a divot in the contact point on the mag. Tested output and have 6 to 7 volts at idle and 20 at running speed. I’d like to see it higher so please offer opinions on a magnet flash. Connected coils and low and behold, it runs. My plugs are gapped at .030 ( too big?) and running down the road there is constant intermittent skip in the engine. Flip to battery and it runs smooth. Any ideas as to why? Carb adjustment doesn’t seem to make much of a difference. Also to note that cylinders 1,2,and 4 have 50 psi compression and 3 has 30. Engine not necessarily balanced in compression but why the difference between mag and bat?
May have solved the issue. Took it out for a rip and started making minor adjustments. At this point I am not noticing the skip anymore. I opened the carb jet very little (maybe I was moving it too much) and backed off on the timing a touch. Thoughts?
Sounds like you’re headed in the right direction. It doesn’t take much enrichment to get rid of a slight lean condition. Regarding spark plug gap, Ford recommended 1/32 inch, so your 0.030 is pretty much right on the money. 
Thanks Cudaman. Had the car out today and it started skipping. Adjustments on carb and timing again didn’t seem to cure. So my thoughts turned to a possibly a dirty timer. I’ve converted mine to two small ball bearings instead of the stock roller. Thats shouldn’t be an issue, but notice I need to clean the 19 more than the 26 that has the same mod. Haven’t been able to investigate yet 'cause of other things going on. Also wondering if a misfiring coil, like a double spark would cause the skip. I dont have a strobospark or a HCCT, but made up a unit that I can check and set amperage draw after setting all the gaps. It also has a motor to run a timer but have not witnessed a double spark. Plan on upping the supply voltage and trying the coils to see if thats an issue. The only thing I don’t know is what to adjust to stop that from happening. Appreciate any advice.
Just had an epiphany…I have 4 store bought refurbished coils in my 26. Maybe…just maybe I should put them in the 19 and see how it runs.
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Well, I put in the new coils and the car ran very well. We got about 1/2 way to our destination and noticed a small hiccup now and then. Was a bit worse on the way home but that ay have been an operator error as when we got home I realized that I had left the choke on a bit. For giggles, I put in new plugs (old were slightly black) and went for a rip and no hiccups. Haven’t had time to go for another long ride. Likely going to have to wait until spring as its a bit chilly for the touring now.
Weather has somewhat co-operated, so I went for a short rip around the block. Rough guess, 5 miles to get it hot as I just didn’t want to move it from one garage bay to another and it ran awesome. I also leaned out the mixture as the plugs that I had removed were slightly black, not the tan color that a good mixture usually gives you. Still ran good, and accelerated well. A thought entered my mind. This car has been running on 6 volts, for likely the last 30 years and possibly a little rich, because there is a fair amount of carbon build-up I can see through the plug holes in the cylinders. Could the carbon, as it gets hot and burns off, be possibly causing some pre-ignition because the engine is now running on the mag and producing a hotter spark? Would appreciate anyone’s insight on this possible brain fart. Also, with the mag, at highway rpm’s it’s producing 20 volts. Could it/ should it be more? Would/ could doing a magnet flash improve the voltage to get a better running engine? Again, thoughts please.
A properly operating magneto is essential to any Model T’s operation. The voltage will exceed 30 volts on a freshly charged set of magnets. Not only that, the magneto will advance the timing a bit as voltage increases which will cause the coil to discharge spark earlier.
I hadn’t considered the timing changing with the voltage, but that does make sense. So a magnet flash would likely be a reasonable thing to to. As far as the procedure, line things up by compass, or remove transmission cover and go by the bolts as i have seen someone here mention that method?
