I have this old transmission, it was on a '26 engine block so I assume it is a '26 transmission. I want to take it apart because that is the best way for me to understand how something works, I am not mechanical.
As you can see in the pictures, I squeezed the clutch spring and removed the pin that holds it in place. Then I removed cup that holds the spring, the spring, and the throw out. (Don’t hesitate to correct me if I misname some pieces, I am learning).
Then I removed the wire holding the bolts and removed 6 bolts.
It looks like the brake drum comes off next, is that correct? How do I go about it?
Also, there is a magneto on the other end of the transmission, can it be removed without taking all the transmission parts off?
You are correct it is a 1926 transmission based on the wide drum. Your next step is to remove the driven plate or the output shaft. It will simply come off or out of the brake drum drums will stay in place. Underneath that you will find a clutch pack in a clutch Hub the clutch pack will come out very easily. I find it easiest to remove the clutch pack with two small magnets so to draw the plates up and out. Then you will have to remove the clutch Hub which is keyed and pressed onto the transmission main shaft. First remove the bolt holding it to the shaft. You will need at the very least a reversible two jaw puller there is a special Ford puller which is much stronger and works much better but you should be able to get the job done with the two job puller found at Harbor Freight. That comes in a set of 3 you may need them someday so not a bad deal. The main shaft will now be free from the drums and can now be lightly tapped through the drums and out of the flywheel. The transmission assembly can now be lifted off of a flywheel. Triple gears will come off the transmission and flywheel pins at the same time. You will now need to remove the driven gear from the brake drum sleeve. Again a special and very Stout puller is required. In this case sometimes heating the gear red hot and then pulling it from Shaft is the only recourse and at the very worst case scenario just cut the gear into two pieces because by this time you have ruined the gear anyway. Do not throw away the two keys that hold the gear to the shaft they are not reproduced. And that concludes the transmission disassembly all the parts will be free from each other and you can clean and inspect.
Thanks. I have a couple of pullers and will try again this afternoon.
This might help a bit more
Once the clutch plates are out, there will be a hole on both sides of the clutch hub. You will be able to pull with those holes and against the main shaft.
And of course remove that set screw
Darn, finished this post, then the mouse fell on the floor and apparently I lost it all before I posted it. So here goes again, if the other post somehow appears that it what happened…
Pictures show the clutch discs, all 26 of them! I numbered them as they came out in case that matters.
And the cotter key in the setscrew, that all came out easily.
And one of the two holes you refer to. My puller is three arm and this requires a two arm which I will borrow from O’riellys tomorrow. I am not in a hurry.
With the clutch discs removed everything turns freely and smoothly. Turning the brake drum causes the reverse drum and low drum to turn also, but at different speeds. When I get this thing apart I will figure out how it works!
The engine this came off of had a broken crank. I am guessing that this transmission is in relatively good shape, but I do not know acceptable tolerances for the different parts. I have removed a lot of ground corn from the triple gears, the mice were busy.
Thank you for your advice as I have proceeded. I want to make sure I don’t screw anything up that may be in good shape through ignorance.
That’s the kind of transmission I like to take apart. When they are all greasy like that there’s a good chance many of the parts will be usable.
Orielly’s did not have the correct puller. AND, two of the guys who worked there started giving me a hard time about driving “that” when it was cold outside. “That” being my speedster. I am always nice when driving my T’s because I don’t want to make a bad impression. But this is the second time one of those guys have given me a hard time about my ride. I really wanted to tell those guys that only the sissified stop driving open air because the temperature is 45*, the world is so effeminacted that guys think they have to act like girls, but that would have done no good. Seriously, a coat, gloves, and helmut liner, and I am good down to 40*. So no more Orilley’s for me.
I went to Advance and an older guy came out when I pulled in. He works there and apparently is some type of boss. We talked for fifteen minutes, turns out he owns a '65 Mustang he is redoing and he likes Fords. He asked what I needed, I told him a puller with 2 arms to pull a clutch drum for a Model T transmission. He stepped inside and told the guy behind the counter, “get this guy what he needs”. And they did, wow were they friendly and helpful!
The clutch drum required a lot of beating with a hammer and board, but it came off. Now the key won’t come out and it is holding a large washer that is holding the drum. I know this is a stupid question, but I don’t want to destroy anything here. What is the best way to remove the key?
Using a small punch, start at the bottom of the key and drive it in. It will force the top of the key out. You can then get a small screw driver in there and gently wriggle it out. Those thrust plates around they main shaft are normally a wear item so if you bugger one up they are like 2 bucks so no big deal. You will find that once apart getting the damn thing clean will be the hardest part. And unfortunately it needs to be super clean to inspect for cracks properly. Like royce said greasy is usually means it was running and is good!
It was impressed upon me when doing this work to keep those
clutch plates mated face-to-face, as they come out of the transmission.
The reasons involved the breakdown of society as we know it and
a hopeless proliferation of unwed mothers. Nobody wants to see
The clutch plates after clean up and placed on a very flat surface some will likely be unusable. Some will be cracked, some burnt, some heated and blued and brittle. Some will be warped. And the notches where they contact the drum or hub can be worn and damaged. Be picky as again these are available, not expensive or good original plates can be used if you have them, and original plates can be sourced easily too!
I had to replace about ten of mine when I did the rebuild. Torn ears
were the only problem. No burning. But to match them took a lot of
picking through used ones to put together a good looking set. We were
all saved from total societal meltdown. Hehehehe !
Maybe someone else has a batter picture. This puller is made from an extra wheel hub plate.
The drums will not come apart, you need to remove the gear at the end. It is pressed on, and can be a real mother! It will require a puller, or if you have access to a press. It may even require heating. Just try a little heat at first. If you you have to heat red hot the gear will be ruined. The tool can likely be found on ebay or if your in a club someone may have it to borrow. I have added pics of the correct ford tool. And the alternative press method that will work, just don’t let the transmission fall on the floor!
Darn, lost another one. I finished the post, started reading it over to edit, then bam it was gone! Does anyone else have this problem, or is it my computer?
Anyway, after looking at what is involved and considering my abilities, I have decided that the drums can stay together. If I need a transmission repaired I will get it done professionally. I will get the bands relined, I have three T’s with '26 transmissions and I am certain that I will have to change some bands sometime in the future. I hope that is something I can handle!
So I have a mostly disassembled '26 transmission that I don’t need. I don’t know enough to evaluate its condition, but I have posted lots of pictures. There is nothing obviously wrong with it that I see. I am posting pictures of the triple gears, flywheel and magneto in this post. Notice the set screw on one of the magnets. It is being held with the magneto set at 45*. Every magnet will hold the setscrew. If you are a member of this forum and want the transmission or some parts of it send me a PM through this forum. Then post a reminder on this thread so I will check my PM’s! Free to good home that will use it, but you pay shipping or pick up here. I would like this to go to someone who will use it, not flip it. If New Years gets here and no one wants it I will Ebay it.
I do not recall specifics on the key removal from my last time
doing it, so no help there. Maybe it is my construction career
background, but I see no issue with letting the ladies behind the
counter know that they need a man mind adjustment. Various real
men that I served under and around in the Corps had brilliant
language to convey a certain dismay, cast out a thinly veiled
insult (to those prone to being insulted), but did so in such a
cleverly worded way as to make it more funny than hurtful. I
took a whole bunch of that home with me and freely serve it up
wherever I go. Delivery is everything, especially around wimps
and snowflakes, but in the main, it is effective and builds a good
relationship with the less-than-firm males we deal with. Keep a
smile, use flowery language, and then smile some more. The
world looks very different for those of us who see the word
“maggot” as a term of endearment. Oo-rah ! Hehehehehe !